Shallow Water Hunting In Lakes

By L.W. Steve

  


Scooping Techniques For The Sandy Areas

Water hunters that are just starting out should find this column very helpful. This article should help you all get off too a fast start by making quicker and easier recoveries. Remember though, I'm a right handed hunter, so if you're left handed then do the opposite of what is shown.

First I would like to mention the pinpoint button. Some water detectors have them and some don't. Personally, I think having a pinpoint button on a water detector is a waste of space. Why would anybody care how big of a hole you dig as long as you fill in your holes when you're done. Most coils on water detectors are either "donut shaped" or made of a web design. So as you are detecting, you can see the bottom thru your coil as long as the water is clear. Next time try eye-balling the area that you're going to scoop instead of using the pinpoint button.

All metal detectors do have built-in pinpoint buttons... (Its your coil!) When you come to a target that you wish to dig, by raising the coil gradually and sweeping it back and forth at the same time, then you're actually pinpointing the target. When you start to lose the audio strength of the target then lower the coil to the bottom and the target should be very close to being under the center of the coil.

Now it is time to mark your target. The photo on the left shows my left foot pointing at the center of the coil. Once you've marked the target as shown then lift the coil away from the bottom, then set your detector off to the side where it will be out of the way. Now it is time to scoop the target as shown in the 2nd photo. If you are unable to retrieve the target on the first scoop then repeat this process again. That would mean redetecting the area and scooping a 2nd time. If the target is shallow and I missed it on my first try then sometimes I will keep my left foot intact and make a "blind scoop" into the area in hopes of snagging the target on my 2nd try, without having to have redetected the area. When sifting the contents of your scoop, make sure you don't do it over the target area. There is no need in making more work for yourself.

                                                    If the target is shallow... (loud signals)

1.) Push the scoop down about 4" deep and at a 45 degree angle. 2.) Level the scoop off making sure it is parallel to the bottom. 3.) Push your scoop forward using your foot and or arms. 4.) Pull back on the scoop and lift upwards.

If the target is deep... (faint signals)

1.) Push the scoop straight down into the sand over the top of the target. 2.) Pull back on the scoop. (be careful not to force it) 3.) Lift scoop upwards. Sift slowly at first if your scoop is full of sand.

There are other ways to mark and scoop your targets. Some hunters prefer to put their foot on top of the coil and then remove the coil. (With the target being under their foot) And then some hunters prefer not to even use their feet to mark the targets. They will just run the scoop right up next to the coil, remove the coil, and then scoop the target. You can use these methods if you prefer, but they do have their drawbacks. Stepping on top of your coil could damage your coil & connector over time, be careful here. Running your scoop right up next to the coil before you scoop the target provides the 'ol ears with a hair raising experience which I don't care for. :) Also, most shoes and boots do have metal on them... And do stay away from wearing steel toe'd boots while out in the water.

Scooping in the sandy areas is a good place to start out if you're new to shallow water hunting. Scooping though in the rocks and clay is where your skills will really be put to test. I will be discussing this in a later article...

Have a great 2001 & May it be Golden One! - L.W.

 

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